:root{--paper:#fcf6e7;--card:#fffdf6;--paper-deep:#f5ecd9;--keyline:#c8b6a6;--keyline-light:#e0d2c0;--ink:#574452;--heading:#4e3d4a;--body:#7c6b76;--quiet:#a2929b;--link:#6b4a7e;--link-hover:#4e3d4a;--eat:#c6a9e2;--see:#c9e3d6;--markets:#f6e3a8;--shop:#f5c89a;--stay:#f2b9b0;--tint-lilac:#e7dcf4;--tint-mint:#dcede4;--tint-neutral:#ede4d4;--font-name:"Marcellus", Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;--font-read:"Quicksand", ui-sans-serif, system-ui, -apple-system, "Segoe UI", sans-serif;--font-fact:"IBM Plex Mono", ui-monospace, SFMono-Regular, Menlo, monospace;--font-sc:"Noto Serif SC", var(--font-name);--font-thai:"Noto Sans Thai", var(--font-read);--measure:34rem;--gutter:20px}@media (width>=900px){:root{--gutter:40px}}*,:before,:after{box-sizing:border-box}html{-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%}body{background:var(--paper);color:var(--body);font-family:var(--font-read);-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased;margin:0;font-size:16px;line-height:1.75}h1,h2,h3,h4{font-family:var(--font-name);color:var(--heading);text-wrap:balance;margin:0;font-weight:400}h1{letter-spacing:-.01em;font-size:34px;line-height:1.08}h2{margin-top:2.4em;font-size:24px;line-height:1.2}h3{margin-top:1.8em;font-size:19px;line-height:1.3}@media (width>=720px){h1{font-size:48px;line-height:1.02}h2{font-size:30px}h3{font-size:21px}}p{text-wrap:pretty;margin:0 0 1.05em}strong{color:var(--ink);font-weight:700}a{color:var(--link);text-decoration:none}a:hover{color:var(--link-hover);text-underline-offset:2px;text-decoration:underline}a:focus-visible,button:focus-visible,summary:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--link);outline-offset:3px;border-radius:2px}hr{border:0;border-top:1px solid var(--keyline-light);margin:2.5em 0}img{max-width:100%;height:auto;display:block}.fact,time,.mono{font-family:var(--font-fact);font-size:.875em}.meta{font-family:var(--font-fact);letter-spacing:.18em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--quiet);font-size:11px}.lede{color:var(--ink);font-size:18px;line-height:1.65}@media (width>=720px){.lede{font-size:19px}}.wrap{max-width:1180px;padding-inline:var(--gutter);margin:0 auto}.prose{max-width:var(--measure)}.prose ul,.prose ol{margin:0 0 1.05em;padding-left:1.2em}.prose li{margin-bottom:.4em}.prose blockquote{background:var(--tint-mint);color:var(--ink);border:0;margin:1.6em 0;padding:14px 18px;font-size:15px}.prose blockquote p:last-child{margin-bottom:0}.skip{position:absolute;left:-9999px}.skip:focus{left:var(--gutter);z-index:50;background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--keyline);padding:8px 14px;top:8px}@media print{body{background:#fff}nav,.no-print{display:none!important}a[href^=http]:after{content:" (" attr(href) ")";font-size:10px}}header[data-astro-cid-nen7h5rs]{background:var(--paper);border-bottom:1px solid var(--keyline)}.bar[data-astro-cid-nen7h5rs]{flex-direction:column;gap:10px;padding-block:14px 12px;display:flex}.brand[data-astro-cid-nen7h5rs]{align-items:baseline;gap:10px;display:flex}.brand[data-astro-cid-nen7h5rs]:hover{text-decoration:none}.name[data-astro-cid-nen7h5rs]{font-family:var(--font-name);color:var(--heading);font-size:22px}.sc[data-astro-cid-nen7h5rs]{font-family:var(--font-sc);color:#a78fc4;font-size:14px}nav[data-astro-cid-nen7h5rs] ul[data-astro-cid-nen7h5rs]{scrollbar-width:none;gap:18px;margin:0;padding:0;list-style:none;display:flex;overflow-x:auto}nav[data-astro-cid-nen7h5rs] ul[data-astro-cid-nen7h5rs]::-webkit-scrollbar{display:none}nav[data-astro-cid-nen7h5rs] a[data-astro-cid-nen7h5rs]{color:var(--body);white-space:nowrap;border-bottom:2px solid #0000;padding-block:2px;font-size:14px;font-weight:500}nav[data-astro-cid-nen7h5rs] a[data-astro-cid-nen7h5rs]:hover{color:var(--link);text-decoration:none}nav[data-astro-cid-nen7h5rs] a[data-astro-cid-nen7h5rs][aria-current=page]{color:var(--ink);border-bottom-color:var(--see)}@media (width>=760px){.bar[data-astro-cid-nen7h5rs]{flex-direction:row;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;padding-block:18px}.name[data-astro-cid-nen7h5rs]{font-size:24px}nav[data-astro-cid-nen7h5rs] ul[data-astro-cid-nen7h5rs]{gap:26px}nav[data-astro-cid-nen7h5rs] a[data-astro-cid-nen7h5rs]{font-size:15px}}footer[data-astro-cid-jo6i4kqk]{border-top:1px solid var(--keyline);background:var(--paper-deep);margin-top:40px}.inner[data-astro-cid-jo6i4kqk]{max-width:1180px;padding-block:28px 40px}.line[data-astro-cid-jo6i4kqk]{max-width:46rem;margin-bottom:.7em;font-size:14px}.meta[data-astro-cid-jo6i4kqk]{margin-top:18px}main[data-astro-cid-hkbrpulz]{padding-block:28px 64px}.updated[data-astro-cid-hkbrpulz]{border-top:1px solid var(--keyline-light);margin-top:56px;padding-top:14px}